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I’ve entered the dark side. The dark gives me a sense of pleasure that no pastel hue can ever do. But saying that means that I gravitate towards designers with a Gothic, Victorian edge. The one’s into razor sharp lines and that have a whimsical way with colour. In 2010, fashion designers with a Gothic aesthetic ruled the runways. And I believe that some of this will leak into spring 2011. Don’t expect to see combat boots in warm weather per say, but you will see a harder edge on the traditional light and flimsy summer theme.

There’s the usual trend report, and then there’s my top five designers and what they’ve brought to the table for spring 2011. I like the latter. So let’s go:

Jil Sander: For years Jil Sander has stuck to clean lines, black and white and colour blocking. Under Raf Simons direction, there’s been more of an emphasis on prints of all kinds. This floral jumper is a must. The hues of the colours are poignant, the black blazer sharpens the look, and the fact that it’s an oversized jumper, rather than a dress, means that it’s for the assertive woman who likes to take risks with her wardrobe.

Rick Owens: The king of haute-Goth has played out his sinister fantasies for the longest time. However, his women this time around are like a blank slate. Not that there’s anything wrong with her, but she’s a bit lost, not sure why. She’s a woman-child, torn between the long billowing skirts of last year and futuristic fashion of the future.

Givenchy: I’ve been in love with Ricardo Tisci for as long as I can remember. It’s like his clothing touches my soul – even though I’ve never bought anything from his collection. But this season, the emphasis was placed more on female sexuality and less on androgyny like it was last year (remember his ads with his transgendered assistant Lea?). This woman is fiery, yet understated. She’s simply…majestic.

Meadham Kirchhoff: Edward and Benjamin seem to be going through a midlife crisis. When I lived in London, UK, my first-ever contact with a MK piece was as a drudgy-intern in the offices of British Vogue. The quality of the pant was unlike anything I had ever seen before. And the dark, über-punk British appeal kept me on my toes. But for the last few seasons, it’s like their muse has joined a circus. However, they do have a way with punk-glam, and they’ve managed to maintain that throughout.


Gareth Pugh: Since showing in New York, Pugh has gone back to hisroots. This futuristic-Goth girl is the truest rendition of Victorian. And the Trompe-l’œil (the black-and-white digital print) looks fresh.

Spot the trend: flowing.